Craft Platforms: Case studies 郭新:首饰与金属工艺-Xin Guo:Jewellery and Metals

郭新:首饰与金属工艺

Xin Guo : Jewellery and Metals

HIGHLIGHTS

设计制作的作品有两类:

(1)做一些自己的艺术创作作品时,是完全手工制作的。因为手工艺讲究的是手与材料的结合、慢慢磨合,艺术家全程要自己设计、自己制作;(2)做一些商业化产品时,会自己做版、用软件绘图,然后把比较精确的设计图、工艺图和尺寸图发到深圳的工厂,借助机器进行批量化的生产。

数字平台面临的挑战有:

(1)抄袭问题;(2)设计师和艺术家们不擅长、没有时间和精力去进行运营和销售。

数字平台的机会点:

(1)让外国人了解到中国当代手工艺的最前沿的发展,而不只是停留在清朝的程度;(2)平台应该对作品进行分类,一个是当代手工艺术家的作品,一个是工艺美术大师的作品,也就是既有商品、创意产品,也要有中国特有的手工艺的东西;(3)提供数字设备共享等服务,降低使用费用、提高使用率。

There are two types of works designed and produced: (1) when making some of her own artistic works, they are completely handmade. Because the handicraft emphasizes the combination of hands and materials and the gradual running in, the artist has to design and make by himself in the whole process; (2) when making some commercial products, she will draw with software, and then send accurate design drawings, process drawings and dimension drawings to the factory in Shenzhen for mass production with the help of machines.

The challenges faced by the digital platform are: (1) plagiarism; (2) designers and artists are not good at, have no time and energy to operate and sell.

Opportunities of digital platform: (1) let foreigners know the most cutting-edge development of China’s contemporary handicrafts, not just stay in the Qing Dynasty; (2) the platform should classify works, one is the works of contemporary handicrafts artists, one is the works of Arts and crafts masters, including commodities, creative products, and Chinese traditional unique handicrafts; (3) Provide services such as digital device sharing, reduce the cost and improve the use rate.

BRIEF INTRODUCTION

Figure 1: 郭新 Xin Guo

郭新,上海大学美术学院首饰与金属工艺专业主任,副教授,硕士生导师。毕业于美国宾夕法尼亚州印第安那大学艺术学院,获得双硕士学位,主修专业为珠宝设计及金属艺术品设计及制作,副修专业为陶艺。现为上海大学美术学院首饰工作室主任、上海双城现代手工艺术馆艺术总监、中国宝玉石协会首饰设计委员会副主任委员、上海工业美术协会首饰专委会副主任。

2003年在上海大学成立首饰金工艺术工作室,是国内高等院校中最早一批建设并一直处于学术领先地位的工作室之一。工作室一共有3位全职老师,1位技师,实行教师技师双轨制教学。工作室只招收研究生,每个老师有5-6位研究生,每学期的期末会对本科生开放工作室,3位老师会开设不同的课程,每门课程的学生控制在20人以内。

Xin Guo, director of jewellery and metal technology, School of fine arts, Shanghai University, who is also an associate professor and master tutor. She graduated from the school of art, Indiana University, Pennsylvania, USA, with a double master’s degree, majoring in jewellery design and metal art design and production, with a minor in ceramics. Now she is the director of jewellery studio of Academy of fine arts of Shanghai University, art director of Shanghai Shuangcheng modern handicraft art museum, vice chairman of jewellery Design Committee of China Gemstone Association, and vice chairman of jewellery special committee of Shanghai Industrial Art Association.

In 2003, jewellery metalworking art studio was established in Shanghai University, which is one of the first batch of studios built in domestic colleges and universities and has always been in the academic leading position. There are 3 full-time teachers and 1 technician in the studio, and the teacher technician dual track teaching system is implemented. The studio only enrolls postgraduates. Each teacher has 5-6 postgraduates. At the end of each semester, the studio will be open to undergraduates. Three teachers offer different courses, and the number of students in each course is controlled within 20.

Figure 2: 工作室 studio

Figure 3: (left)Dangerous beauty作品“危险的美”(right)Metamorphosis作品“蜕变”

“危险的美”创作于留美期间,手工锻铜,焊接成型,热着色。用美丽的外表和危险的内在之间的矛盾探讨了人与人之间合适的距离。

“蜕变”系列的挂件表现人性、神性、魔性之间的争战、挣扎之痛、断、舍、离、合。主要工艺采用民间花丝与综合材料相结合,材料为银花丝和玻璃。这个系列是和贵州非遗工艺美术大师合作的花丝作品。

  “Dangerous beauty” was created when she was in the United States. She forged copper by hand, formed by welding, and colored by heat. This work discusses the proper distance between people with the contradiction between beautiful appearance and dangerous inner.

The “Metamorphosis” series of pendants show the battle, struggle pain, break, give up, leave and close among human nature, divinity and magic. The main technology is the combination of folk filament and comprehensive materials, which are silver filament and glass. This series is a flower silk work cooperated with Arts and Crafts Master of Guizhou intangible cultural heritage.

DIGITAL ‘TOUCH POINTS’

Use of Digital equipment

  • 陶瓷工作室去年引入了3D打印机,设计系也有3D打印机,但是由于材料太贵,不常使用。学校为工作室提供的资金有限。
  • 由于学生大多是研究生,在本科阶段已经掌握了很多数字化的东西,反而亲自动手操作这方面比较欠缺,所以工作室更注重手工这方面。
  • Last year, the ceramic studio bought 3D printers, and the design department also has 3D printers, but the material is too expensive, so it is not often used. The school has limited funding for the studio.
  • Due to the fact that most students are graduate students and have mastered a lot of digital things in the undergraduate stage, they are lack of hands-on operation, so the studio pays more attention to manual operation.

Use of digital software

  • 在本科生教学过程中强调手工艺和计算机设计平行学习,避免他们有先入为主的观念认为设计首饰就是用电脑解决的。而是让他们同时知道手工和计算机如何做设计。

    In the process of undergraduate teaching, they emphasize the parallel study of handicraft and computer design to avoid the preconceived idea that jewellery design is solved by computer. They are hoped to know how to design by hand as well as by computer.

Use of website presence

  • 首饰金工艺术工作室没有自己的网站。这个网站是上海公共艺术协同创新中心(PACC)网站,PACC也是上海大学上海美术学院的创新教育基地,网站的内容包括艺术教育、非遗传承、展览活动和新闻等,涵盖各类手工艺。

    Jewelry metalworking art studio does not have its own website. This is the website of Shanghai Public Art Collaborative Innovation Centre (PACC). PACC is also the innovation education base of Shanghai Academy of Fine Arts of Shanghai University. The content of the website includes art education, intangible cultural heritage inheritance, exhibition activities and news, covering all kinds of handicrafts.

图 4:上海公共艺术协同创新中心网站
Figure 4: Public Art Coordination Center (PACC)

Use of Social Media

  • 微信公众号 Wechat public account

Figure 5: WeChat public account

图 6:公众号推文

(left)非遗传承研修培训——金属锻制,intangible cultural heritage heritage training – metal forging, https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/47VasLZ82ifQgureaYZa5w

(centre)研究生作品展示,exhibition of Postgraduates’ works , https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/70IQ0gydbp-Y1TKq_rHD1A;

(right)非遗传承研修班——新疆模戳印花,intangible cultural heritage heritage Workshop – Xinjiang stamp printing , https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/RDaYlf7WZFWLvr-OT3wE6Q。

  • 线上教学会用到微信和腾讯会议
  • Use WeChat and Tencent Conference for online teaching

销售

  • 在作品展览上面会让学生提供自己的微信二维码,消费者可以自己联系学生,进行买卖。
  • 工作室只是教学机构,不卖东西,因为卖东西会涉及到纪律问题。
  • 一些毕业的学生开设自己的工作室,会有微信公众号进行宣传,也有做直播的。销售一般不会在淘宝,而是借助微信群等积累一些小圈子的客户,在群里分享自己的设计。

sale

  • Students could provide their own WeChat QR code on the exhibition, and consumers can contact students for business.
  • The studio is only a teaching institution and does not sell things, because selling things will involve discipline issues.
  • Some graduates set up their own studios, and have publicity on WeChat public account and live broadcast. In general, sales are not in Taobao, but in some small groups of customers like WeChat group, in which they share their own design.

The challenges of applying digital platforms

版权问题

  • 线上卖产品不多,因为很容易被人复制。经常会有学生发给我图片说有copy我的作品,我是比较宽容的态度,因为我不是做商业的,我是做教育的,我不太在乎这个。我可以理解纯粹做商业的话,知识产权肯定是要保护的。一些国际展会不让中国人进,因为copy太严重了。
  • 抄袭这方面,在中国难以借助法律维权,基本都是无疾而终。

Copyright issues

  • There are not many products sold online, because it is easy to be copied. Some students sent me pictures saying that there is someone who copied my works. I have a more tolerant attitude, because I am not in business, I am in education, and I don’t care much about this. I can understand that intellectual property rights must be protected in the case of pure business. Some international exhibitions do not allow Chinese people to enter, because copy is too serious.
  • In the aspect of plagiarism, it is difficult to protect rights with the help of law in China, which basically ends in nothing.

 

能力不足

  • 有学生开了自己的商店、工作室,基本是以卖课程和体验为主,用课程养作品。参加课程的都是一些爱好者,基本上都是白领、骨干、精英类人群,他们有这个消费的能力。
  • 完全靠工作室生存是很困难的,开工作室还需要会销售、售后服务,而设计师或者艺术家们并不擅长这些,所以基本上需要3、4个人一起合作。所以他们宁肯和商店合作,寄售,只做自己擅长的创意和前端。我个人赞成只做自己擅长的东西,不擅长销售就不要硬去做,消耗太多精力,并且不容易做好。

Insufficient capacity

Some students have opened their own shops and studios, mainly selling courses and experiences, and using courses to support their works. Most participants in the course are enthusiasts, basically white-collar, backbone and elite people, who have the ability to consume.

It’s very difficult to live entirely by the studio. It needs to be able to sell and provide after-sales service when opening a studio, but designers or artists are not good at these things, so it basically needs 3 or 4 people to work together. So they prefer to cooperate with the store, sell on consignment, and only do the creativity and front-end that they are good at. I personally agree to only do what they are good at. If they are not good at sales, they don’t have to do it. It consumes too much energy and is not easy to do it well.

The challenges of applying digital platforms

宣传中国当代手工艺 希望这个平台很重要的一点是,可以让外国人了解到中国当代手工艺的最前沿的发展,而不只是停留在清朝的程度。

产品分类 所以平台应该分类,一个是当代手工艺术家的作品,一个是工艺美术大师的作品。既有商品、创意产品,也要有中国特有的手工艺的东西。

提供数字化设备共享服务 数字化的设备由于价格较高,使用率很低。可以通过共享,来降低费用、提高使用率。

Propagandizing Chinese contemporary handicraft: It is hoped that this platform could let foreigners  understand the most cutting-edge development of China’s contemporary handicrafts, rather than just staying in the Qing Dynasty.

Product classification: So the platform should be classified, one is the work of contemporary handicraft artists, the other is the work of Arts and crafts masters. There are not only commodities and creative products, but also things with Chinese unique handicrafts.

Provide digital equipment sharing services: Due to the high price, the utilization rate of digital equipment is very low. Through sharing, we can reduce costs and improve utilization.

MORE DESCRIPTIONS

手工艺的价值

手工艺提高了人们的生活品质,能够让人们不仅仅是物理的肉体得到满足,而且精神层面也能够得到满足。尤其是手工艺的日用品,能够让人们在日常生活中感受到美的价值,在解决生理需求的同时享受“生活”,而不仅仅是“生存”。

很多人会觉得艺术是一种奢侈品,但对我来说不是这样。无论是手工艺还是手艺,它们的价值就在于告诉我们人活着是有目的或者意义的,而不仅仅是一个偶然的或者毫无意义的物理的存在。

The value of craft

Handicrafts improve people’s quality of life, which can make people not only meet the physical body, but also meet the spiritual level. In particular, the daily necessities of handicrafts can make people feel the value of beauty in their daily life, and enjoy “life” while solving their physiological needs, rather than just “survival”.

Many people think that art is a luxury, but it’s not so for me. Whether it’s craftsmanship or craft, their value lies in telling us that living is purposeful or meaningful, not just an accidental or meaningless physical existence.

 

在坚持手工艺的过程中面临的最大的挑战

最大的挑战是如何帮助艺术家卖掉他们的作品、解决温饱问题。我认为艺术家应该认清自己的两种角色,作为艺术家创作的时候不需要考虑市场,越纯粹越好,主观地、真诚地表达自己的想法;而作为设计师面对市场进行设计的时候,一定要考虑用户的需求,在满足自己对艺术的追求的同时满足客户需求。

我不反对做商业化的东西,先生存、先吃饱饭才有精力搞艺术。这一直是我对艺术家的建议,鼓励他们一方面保持艺术创作的热情和理想,另一方面也要想想怎么解决温饱问题。

The biggest challenge in the process of insisting on craft

The biggest challenge is to help artists sell their works and solve the problem of living. I think artists should recognize their two roles. As artists, they don’t need to consider the market when creating. The purer the better, they can express their ideas subjectively and sincerely. As designers, when designing in the face of the market, they must consider the needs of users and meet the needs of customers while satisfying their pursuit of art.

I’m not opposed to making commercialized things. Only when you have enough food, can you have the energy to do art. This has always been my advice to artists. On the one hand, I encourage them to keep their passion and ideals for artistic creation, and on the other hand, I also want to think about how to solve the problem of food and clothing.

 

数字化机器生产和传统手工艺之间的关系?

作为手工艺术家来说,自己的手的参与是没有办法被替代的,因为手工艺是手和材料的结合,在这个过程中手和材料慢慢磨合,逐渐形成最终的作品,和雕塑是一样的。

我认为机器是手的延伸,在传统手工艺无法解决或者需要做批量生产的产品时,就需要借助机器生产。

手工艺有两个大的发展方向,一个是纯粹的艺术创作,艺术家全程自己设计、自己参与;一个是批量化的产品,艺术家要学会用软件绘图,制作比较精确的工艺图和尺寸图交给工厂生产。

The relationship between digital machine production and traditional handicraft?

As a handicraft artist, there is no way to replace the participation of his own hands, because handicraft is the combination of hands and materials. In this process, hands and materials slowly run in, gradually forming the final work, which is the same as sculpture.

I think the machine is an extension of the hand. When the traditional handicraft cannot solve the problem or need to make mass production products, we need to use the machine to produce.

There are two major development directions of handicrafts: one is pure artistic creation, and the artist designs and participates in the whole process by himself; the other is mass production. The artist should learn to draw with software, and make more accurate process drawings and dimension drawings for factory production.

 

中国的手工艺体系和欧美国家比起来差异在哪里?

  • 一个比较大的差异是,欧美他们的市场体系已经成熟了,市场细分化已经完成了。他们从学院到市场整个体系是贯穿下来的,没有太脱节,可以搞艺术,可以搞产品,有公司和你合作。而在中国的这个体系不完整,呈现的是碎片化、个体性的操作,这是最大的问题。不是我们的东西卖不出去,而是没有找到合适的、特定的群体。
  • 另外就是协会和组织。美国的American craft council每年都会组织举办大型的展销会,手工艺人通过展会能够销售自己的作品,很好地解决生存问题。展会还会和高校合作,提供免费的展位,让高校的优秀作品直接面对市场。另外,协会还会通过展会、杂志、网站等,与各地的艺术中心合作提供各种课程、沙龙、讲座,帮助大众了解手工艺。
  • 西方的展览是针对不同的群体设置的,针对消费能力一般的客户和高水平的收藏群体的客户有不同的展览,艺术家们可以找到适合自己的定位。艺术家们不是单打独斗,不缺乏背后的支持,体系十分完善。而中国的艺术家是单打独斗的,协会太多、各自为政、没有起到自己应该起的作用,运转效率不高,资源没有整合起来。
  • 一些手工艺大师、工艺美术大师观念较为老旧,认为“教给徒弟,饿死师傅”,所以保留着自己的绝活,和高校的教学理念不同。

What is the difference between China’s handicraft system and that of Europe and America?

A big difference is that market system in the west has matured and their market segmentation has completed. Their system runs through from the college to the market, without too much disconnection. They can engage in art or products, and cooperate with companies. But in China, the system is incomplete, presenting fragmented and individual operation, which is the biggest problem. It’s not that our products can’t be sold, but that we haven’t found the right and specific customer groups.

In addition, associations and organizations. American Craft Council in the United States organizes and holds large-scale exhibitions every year, through which craftsmen can sell their works and solve the survival problems. The exhibitions also cooperate with colleges and universities to provide free booths, so that the excellent works of colleges and universities can face the market directly. In addition, through exhibitions, magazines, websites, etc., the association will cooperate with art centres around the world to provide various courses, salons, lectures to help the public understand craft.

Western exhibitions are set up for different groups. There are different exhibitions for customers with general consumption ability and high-level collection groups. Artists can find suitable positioning. Artists do not fight alone, do not lack the support behind, the system is very perfect. However, Chinese artists fight alone. There are too many associations, they are independent, they don’t play the role they should. The operation efficiency is not high, and the resources are not integrated.

Some arts and crafts masters are old-fashioned. They think that “teach apprentices and starve masters”, so they keep their unique skills, which is different from the teaching concepts of colleges and universities.

SUMMARY

  • 设计制作:上海大学首饰金工艺术工作室的师生在设计制作的过程中有两类作品,一类是艺术创作作品,完全手工制作。艺术家全程要自己设计、自己制作;做一些商业化产品时,会自己做版、用软件绘图,然后把比较精确的设计图、工艺图和尺寸图发到深圳的工厂,借助机器进行批量化的生产。
  • 宣传:主要是微信公众号和网站。上大美院金工首饰公众号的推文有展览、工作坊、比赛、艺术家及其作品展示等;PACC公众号的推文包括各类手工艺的展览展示、艺术教育、非遗传承等。
  • 销售:工作室不会组织售卖,在展览过程中,如果有观众感兴趣,可以通过作品旁边的二维码联系作者进行商业合作。
  • Design and production: The teachers and students of Shanghai University jewelry metalworking art studio have two kinds of works in the process of design and production, one is artistic creation works, which are completely handmade. Artists should design and make their own products in the whole process。When making some commercial products, they will make their own version and draw with software, and then send more accurate design drawings, process drawings and dimensional drawings to the factory in Shenzhen, and carry out mass production with the help of machines.
  • Publicity: mainly WeChat public account and website. There are exhibitions, workshops, competitions, artists and their works in WeChat public account of Jewellery and Metal Technology, School of fine arts, Shanghai University. The PACC public’s articles include exhibitions, art education, Heritage Inheritance, and so on.
  • Sales: The studio do not organize sales. During the exhibition, if any audience want, they can contact the author through the QR code next to the work for business cooperation.

CONTACT

上海公共艺术协同创新中心官网Public Art Coordination Center (PACC) http://www.ipublicart.com

Wechat public account:上大美院金工首饰工作室;新饰界;公共艺术协同创新中心。

RELATED ARTICLES

访谈记录:重新绽放手工艺术之美——访艺术首饰家郭新https://site.douban.com/121775/widget/notes/6464100/note/295053163/

微信推文:郭新 | 推展当代手工艺术https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Y3Kkm2by1LPk-3nYd655wQ

微信推文:艺术首饰先锋者——郭新https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/MX4UJCGCX310-DUP34c4nA

Contact Us

Craftplatforms.org has been produced by the project research team at Queen Mary University of London, UK, and Hunan University, China.

Contact E-mail: contact@craftplatforms.org

For more information or to speak to the craft research team, please contact:

Prof. Nick Bryan-Kinns

n.bryan-kinns@qmul.ac.uk

School of Electronic Engineering and Computer Science
Queen Mary University of London
London E1 4NS

Prof. Hao Tan

htan@hnu.edu.cn

School of Design, Hunan University
Yuelu Mountain, Changsha